In “Lost Temples of India”, we examine
these 1,000-year-old temples adorned with intricate and beautiful sculptures.
We learn how the kings used large herds of trained elephants to drag the
millions of stone blocks into place and how these temples are virtually unknown
and unvisited by Western tourists. Truth or fiction, the stories of Mysteries
of Asia will amaze and delight.
When people think of India, they
think of the Taj Mahal, Shāh Jahān’s eternal memorial dedicated to his wife
Mumtāz Mahal. But there is a more ancient and secret India hidden deep in its
tropical jungles, with one of the greatest building efforts in the human
[record]. History has produced thousands of strange and mysterious temples that
are today lost and forgotten. This is India’s Deep South, a land of emerald
green rice fields and immense palm forests, where every few miles temples soar
toward the heavens in the countryside.
Here, over a thousand year ago, 985 AD to be exact, Rajaraja
Cholan became King of the Chola Dynasty. His original name was Arunmozhivarman,
and his title was Rajakesari Varman or Mummudi-Sola-Deva. He was the second son
of the Parantaka Cholan II.
His capital was the city of
Thanjavur. Thanjavur was the royal city of the Cholas, Nayaks, and the
Mahrattas. Thanjavur derives its name from Tanjan-an asura (giant), who
according to local legend devastated the neighbourhood and was killed by Sri
Anandavalli Amman and the God Vishnu.
Rajaraja Cholan was one of the greatest kings of India, and in
the south he embarked on one of the largest building plans in the history of
mankind that still continues till this day. He
and his successors moved more stone then the great pyramid of Giza.
The extent of the Temple Grounds is so large that over 200 Taj
Mahal’s can fit into it.
You might ask why Rajaraja Cholan
built all these temples. Well, it was the same motive that built Europe’s
cathedrals and Egypt’s pyramids. He was moved by the power of faith. You have
to understand one thing about India: this is a land with almost as many gods as
people, and it believes all life to be sacred; even a humble ant has its place.
Gods are worshiped differently here than in Europe. During festivals, for
example, the gods are taken from their shrines and paraded around in the temple
grounds, their costumes are changed at the end of the day, and they are put to
bed for a few hours rest at night.
Generally, it’s believed that if
these and other rituals are performed perfectly, then it’s going to be more
beneficial for you, so that’s why rituals are taken very seriously and they are
memorized rigorously by priests. These rituals hardly if ever change with the
passage of time. For any religion, anywhere in the world, including
Christianity, Islam, Buddhism, and so on – to flourish it helps to have friends
in high places, like kings or very wealthy benefactors. For Hinduism, with its
vast temples and thousands of priests, friends in high places are absolutely
essential. Rajaraja was one of the greatest patrons of arts and religion in
India’s long history.
And this was his start, the great
temple of Bragatheeswarar.
It’s one of the most amazing buildings in
India. It’s 10 times taller than
anything built before it, and not only is it huge, but
it’s made of granite, one of the hardest stones in the world.
The inner shrine under the large tower contains a large phallus-shaped stone,
called a ‘Ling’, which represents the god Shiva, one of the most powerful and
popular gods, and also one of the three gods of the Holy Trinity that began,
runs, and ultimately ends this universe, only to start all over again. The phallus-shaped ‘Ling’ which is Shiva is 12 feet in height and
5 feet in diameter. Every day the priests dress Shiva, and wash
him with milk. This has been going on since the creation of the temple and it
still goes on today in an unbroken chain for the past thousand years.
To build temples like these
required huge amounts of money, and the easiest way to get it was by attacking
your weaker neighbors. Rajaraja began his career with the conquest of the Chera
country. He defeated Chera King Bhaskara Ravivarman, whose fleet he destroyed
in the port of Kandalur. He also seized Pandya Amara Bhujanga, and captured the
port of Vilinam. By his campaign against the Singhalees, he annexed northern
Ceylon (modern day Sri Lanka), and built a number of stone temples in the
Ceylonese capital Polonnaruva. Most of his triumphs were achieved by the
fourteenth year of his reign (AD 998-999). Rajaraja assumed the title “Mummudi
Cholan” and moved his capital from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruva. The Chola
culture and Shiva religion permeated the whole of Ceylon.
Having thus realized his cherished
military glories, in or about 1003 AD Rajarajan sheathed his sword and turned
his thoughts toward a life of peace. It was about this time, that the
Chidambaram temple authorities bestowed on him the title of “Sri Rajarajan”.
India is a huge country and it has
a very diverse climate. Eastern India is a desert, while the western part
receives the highest rainfall in the world. Central India is a huge plateau
covering four modern states. Warfare in India was a very different affair in
each climatic region, with one common element throughout: the war elephants.
In the jungles of South India,
Rajaraja had an ample supply of elephants for his war effort. Now, wild
elephants might seem the right candidates to become war elephants, but they are
actually very docile, only attacking when provoked. Only the biggest, fiercest,
and fittest tusked males could be used as war elephants. Ancient elephant
trainers, or “mahouts” (still called by this name today), made a stockade and
drove elephant herds into a funnel that led them inside. As recently as the
1960s, the same method was used to capture elephants as in Rajaraja’s day,
except they were used then for labor instead of war. The ancient mahouts picked
the strongest bulls among the herds to be trained for the battlefields. The
rest became working elephants, used for heavy lifting and transporting heavy
objects for construction projects. The mahouts controlled the war elephants by
getting them drunk on fermented rice liquor, called “makar”, before every
battle. The elephants could literally slice their way through a battlefield
with razor-sharp blades attached to their trunks. From the top of the
elephants, spear throwers, generals, or archers could rain down death on the
people below. Despite these advantages, elephants are very hard to control.
Instinctively, they don’t favor killing people en masse. Only the legendary
skill of the mahouts could make them do so. It is interesting to note, just
like the Roman legions we know, the names of over 70 regiments in the ancient
Indian army that distinguished themselves in battle are known because the names
are inscribed in the temples – like the
Ilaiya-Rajaraja-terinda-Valangai-Velaikkarar, Parivarameykappargal (a regiment of Personal Bodyguards), Mummadi- Chola-terinda-Anaippagar (a regiment of the Elephant Corps). The surnames or titles of the king or of his son are usually prefixed before the regiment’s name, possibly as a sign of attachment after a regiment distinguished itself in a battle or other engagement. It would be considerably honorable and prestigious to be in the king’s own regiment.
Ilaiya-Rajaraja-terinda-Valangai-Velaikkarar, Parivarameykappargal (a regiment of Personal Bodyguards), Mummadi- Chola-terinda-Anaippagar (a regiment of the Elephant Corps). The surnames or titles of the king or of his son are usually prefixed before the regiment’s name, possibly as a sign of attachment after a regiment distinguished itself in a battle or other engagement. It would be considerably honorable and prestigious to be in the king’s own regiment.
After Rajaraja secured a good supply of money, he started
construction on his Temple of Bragatheeswarar. The
quarry that supplied the granite was over 50 miles away from
the temple site. Most of the stones were moved with boats, but some much
heavier stones, like the81.3-ton capstone at the summit of the tower, were
moved with a combination of ramps and elephants. The remains of the original
ramps still exist today after a thousand years, indicating a gentle 6-degree
slope pointing toward the top of the temple. The ramp began 1 mile from the
temple, and gradually intersected with the top of the tower 216 feet in the
air. Stones were moved from the quarry to the ramp, and up the ramp, with
elephants pulling the stones over wooden rollers, much the same as the way
ancient Egyptians built the pyramids.
You’d think Rajaraja was crazy going to so much trouble to make
just a temple, but let me explain. Rajaraja was a very religious man, and he
was caught between a rock and a hard place. On the one hand, his religion
forbade him to kill, and on the other hand, to be a successful king he had to
make war on his neighbors for his people’s sake – otherwise his kingdom would
be weak and easily overrun. So he was responsible for the deaths of hundreds of
thousands of his enemies. He firmly believed as do all Hindu’s today in rebirth
and reincarnation, and that your actions in this life will determine your lot
in the next one. Given the blood on Rajaraja’s hands, he might come back as a
worm or something even worse. So he spent fabulous amounts of money on his
temples. As one example, it’s
written in an inscription that it took 4,000 cows, 7,000 goats, and 30 buffalos
just to supply the butter required for the lamps that were lit in the temple and temple
grounds. And this was just one temple. Rajaraja provided for hundreds of
temples that he created just to insure that he kept his karma in good standing.
By his generosity, he hoped the gods would overlook his transgressions and be
persuaded to reincarnate him as something better than a worm.
Indian religion during Rajaraja’s time
also spread across other lands. That’s why in the steaming jungles of Cambodia,
the temples of Angkor Wat don’t depict Cambodian gods, but the gods of India.
Not only did religion spread, but also art. When Europe was languishing in the
Dark Ages, the artists in the Chola Empire were making bronze statues like the
famous Nathraja shown below.
This is Shiva, who appears as
Nathraja, the Lord of the Dance, simultaneously crushing the dwarf of ignorance
under his foot, beating the drum of creation, unleashing the fires of
destruction and finally raising one hand in assurance, telling us to fear not.
Near Thanjavur, artists still create bronzes as they did in Rajaraja’s time,
placing mud from the Kavari River on a hand carved wax statue to create a mold.
After that, they pour molten bronze or gold into the mold and let it cool to
take the shape of the statue.
When Rajaraja died in 1014, he
left behind him a shining legacy that made him one of the greatest patrons of
art and religion in India. The Chola Dynasty ended with King Rajendra Chola
III, the last Chola king. The last recorded date of Rajendra III is 1279 AD.
There is no evidence that Rajendra was followed immediately by another Chola
prince. The Chola empire was completely overshadowed by the Pandyan empire,
though many small chieftains continued to claim the title “Chola” well into
15th century.
This is a mural showing Rajaraja,
drawn during his reign, showing him in red standing behind his guru. If you
have seen a picture of the god Shiva, you might find similarities with the hair
style of Rajaraja. It must be noted that some archeologists dispute whether
this is actually Rajaraja or not.
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